We rode in on the bus from Pamplona, only a one hour 8.20 Euro ride. We arrived in the cool foggy mid-morning to our dismay as we were hoping to jump in the Bay of Biscay upon getting to the beach town. Looking around I saw so much more opportunities for exploration that I couldn’t check into my hostel fast enough. A Room in the City is where I left my baggage to store until the official 3:00pm check in time. Since I had only scheduled two days in San Sebastian, Basque Country in Norther Spain, I did not want to waste a precious moment. I knew exactly where I wanted to go. My travelling buddy from Pamplona was not as convinced.
“We just follow the path up.” I said, pointing to the large statute of Jesus on the mountain top. Following the beach line after dipping our toes in the water, we passed San Sebastian City Hall, The Ayuntamiento, and a carousel that I nearly got thrown out of San Sebastian for jumping on it mid ride. Whoops! Weaving through the streets of the old town that we promised to come back to later for a bite to eat, we found the curving path that went around and around to the top of the mountain, Monte Urgell. Jesus was waiting for us there standing atop the Mota Castle. As well as a panoramic stunning view of Playa de la Concha, the infamous shoreline.
After spending a couple hours getting up and down one of the highest peaks in the area, we stopped in the old town for a late lunch, passing Basilica de Santa Maria del Coro. I wasn’t too hungry so I had the biggest piece of Tiramisu that I have ever had in my life. And a café con leche. Both were exactly what my stomach was looking for. Our waiter was from Argentina and said that he would never move back home because from the moment he met San Sebastian, he was in love. He said it was safe, energetic, friendly, and of course, the surf was incredible. The town is known for surfing and kite surfing at Playa de la Zurriola.
Across from us where we were sitting on the patio at one of two bar height tables, I saw a bright green mailbox with ‘Post By Me’ written on the front. I decided to buy a few postcards with postage from the shop and hope that as I dropped them in the green foreign box that they would reach my family and friends. If not, I promise I was thinking about you! And yes, I did mail postcards to you all four years ago from Bali, have you received them yet?!? I knew that wasn’t a mailbox! No, I actually didn’t.
Leaving my friend and suggesting we meet later for some nightlife, I checked into the expensive but worth every penny hostel. With a quick tour, a snack, and another coffee, I set out to explore the other side of the beach – the once Royal families summer home, Miramar Palace. I walked the shoreline once again to lessen the distance and take advantage of the salt water and sand between my toes. Imagining the area a hundred years ago when royalty rode in carriages up and down the promenade while sipping tea with other dignitaries. Oh, to live in such an era!
The first time I was on royal property was in London, England where I fell asleep on the lawn of Buckingham Palace. I was a bit less relaxed this time but, I did take time out to smell the well manicured flowers.
As the rain started a bit later in the evening, my travel buddy and I decided to stay at my hostels patio bar and then walk about the old town when the rain turned into a drizzle. We popped by La Mariner, a super fantastic and highly recommended seafood tapas restaurant. The counter to extends the length of the restaurant where a man greets you for your order. We ordered spicy muscles, calamari, spicy potatoes in a creamy mayonnaise, which came with a basket of bread, and a litre of beer for my friend. Cheap and delicious.
Saying goodnight to my friend, I carried on my way to roam the town as it sparkled in shimmering gold light. I sat for a bit to take in the post rain smell mixed with the salty breeze of the sea, I couldn’t ask for anything more in that moment. Except for another day.
Morning came a little later as my eyes were sleepy from the past days of the San Fermin festivities. I decided to explore the other highest peak, Monte Igueldo, just past Miramar Palace. To get to the top there is an option to take the oldest train in the city (100 years old) up for only 2.35 Euro. Both ways is an option but I chose to walk down to capture the one way views. Reaching the top of this mountain, I was met with a small amusement park. A roller coaster, bumper cars, a tilt-a-whirl, a few other little children’s rides, a tapas bar, and a gift shop. Again, the view of the magnificent town of San Sebastian and the Atlantic Ocean. Absolutely stunning! I paused for a coffee to soak in all of what I was witnessing.
Reluctantly, I made my way down through the winding streets, passing a lighthouse overlooking the ocean, and into the town where I came across the oldest church, The Church of the Good Shepard, in the area. Before this, I detoured to the end of Playa de la Concha to see the wrought iron sculptures. At the end of the land, where the waves crash you will see three iron art pieces called The Wind Comb defying the force of the sea.
That night, meeting up with my friend, we made our way through the old town again but this time enjoying the many bars serving up pintxos – tapas on bar tops to eat while drinking and socializing. The pintxo originated in San Sebastian in order to make drinking a healthy activity – the food source is supposed to soak up some of the alcohol. These Spanish know what they are doing. We were able to taste many different flavours and recipes in bit sized portions. Oh, and the burnt cheesecake? A must!
It made for a fun way to end a short trip to the iconic beach town. And, just like the bit sized appetizers, it made me hungry for more. Hopefully, I’ll be back to visit you one day San Sebastian. The sooner the better in my opinion!
